Moon cakes with anti-Japanese slogans |
Still, the last place that I expected a conflict between China and Japan to manifest itself would be in the form of a mooncake. The seasonal treat has already been implicated as part of a 'crackdown' on corruption (are there any articles on China in the popular press that don't use the word 'crackdown' or 'dark side'?) and as a source of phenomenal waste (an estimated 2 million are thrown out by Hong Kong).
During the Autumn Harvest festival last September, the practice of bribing with expensive mooncakes packed with luxuries such as alcohol in the box was widely reported. The BBC reported the government's ban on use of public funds to buy mooncakes. Subsequently, the Atlantic and Reuters reported luxury mooncake sales are down because of this ban and that this had a positive impact on waste generated by packaging in general which in 2009 was 40 million tonnes. While the mooncake's links to corruption are an amusing read while sitting in a cafe sipping coffee, one has to bear in mind that according to the World Bank, those kinds of luxuries are very far many people's experience; 'official data shows that about 98.99 million people still lived below the national poverty line of RMB 2,300 (approx. € 268) per year at the end of 2012 and income inequality has risen steadily since the 1980's; 'not the result of stagnant or declining incomes among poorer groups, but of more rapid growth in incomes of richer groups' (1).
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Because of the use of characters rather than alphabets in the Chinese language, a few characters can say a lot. As Michael Anti reminded the audience at his TED talk, the 140 character limit on Twitter or Twitter clones in China can be a 'a story' in Chinese. The anti- Japanese slogans on the cakes, the translation from here on UPenn's Language Log blog read as follows:
Tònghèn xiǎo Rìběn 痛恨小日本 ("Detest Little Japan!")
Dǎdǎo xiǎo Rìběn 打倒小日本 ("Down with Little Japan!")
Yǎo sǐ xiǎo Rìběn 咬死小日本 ("Bite Little Japan to Death!")
Cuisine is often the first entry into a culture; a source of national identity and pride. I tend to think of food as politically neutral, and Asian food in particular in an idealized way; but try, for instance, if you are hungry, to order an 'English Breakfast/Full English' in Ireland. Using pastries as slogan bearers seems to go against their shared aesthetic pleasure of food; the characters for delicious which in both Chinese 美味měiwèi and Japanese 美味 oishii reads as beautiful flavour/taste = delicious. Li Zehou further states that beauty is synonymous with good because of the shamanistic rituals which imbue objects with significance. The character for beauty is made up of 'ram' 羊 on the top and' 'large' 大 on the bottom. Rather than accepting the simplistic explanation that a big ram, ie, a plentiful food source, as good therefore beautiful, Li argues that instead it refers to a man wearing a ram's head in a shamanistic ritual. It is through ritual practices that notions of 'good' or 'beautiful' are formed in a process that Li calls sedimentation. Rather than there being an ideal Beauty that humans fail to 'represent', aesthetics are embedded in everyday life or as Li says,Gǎn zǒu xiǎo Rìběn 赶走小日本 ("Expel Little Japan!")
The sentiments on the mooncakes were expressed in the context of a larger dispute over the (uninhabited) Senkaku/Diaoyu Islands which Japan annexed during the Sino-Japanese war. Han-yi Shaw stated in his extensive piece of scholarship in 1999:... the aesthetic realm is the revelation of life through the relationship between feeling and scene, and the objectified realm of the artistic subject—in other words, it is a manifestation of the realm of human life. (Chinese Aesthetic Tradition, Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 2010, p.2)
"For the Chinese in particular, the Diaoyutai/Senkaku Islands have become an important nationalistic symbol which reminds them of Japan's past military aggression, frequent evasion of war responsibility, and possible military revival"(2)
In this sense it fits in with the novel ways in which Chinese protest, given that conventional forms of dissent can result in imprisonment and communications are monitored and censored. Steamed buns were recently used by protesters as 'a new symbol of social justice' in reference to President Xi Jinping's visit a eatery in Bejing to cultivate 'common man' image.
According to the Economist, in an article about the islands and Okinawa, Japan states that it 'discovered' the islands in 1884 and they set up a bonito processing plant there. However, the article also shows a Japanese map from 1785 in which they call the islands by their Chinese name and color them in the same color as China. The China Daily reports that:
Japan seized China's Diaoyu Islands in 1895, and the US took over jurisdiction of the islands after the Second World War. In 1971, the US made backroom deals with Japan, giving Japan so-called jurisdiction.It is also a resources dispute. The Japan Times describe it as part of a larger strategy for maritime resources control or 'territorial creep' since China is also reexamining the 'resources-rich' Himalayan border with India. The conflict flared up when oil and gas reserves were found on the seabed in the late 1960's and escalated again when the Japanese government purchased the remaining islands that were not already under its control from the private owner in 2012. Arguments about the Okinawan trough and claims on Okinawa will only escalate this conflict.
None of this changes the fact that these mooncakes still look and probably taste good. By associating pleasure, traditional culture and ritual with anti-Japanese slogans it is the ultimate in soft power persuasion, making animosity a flavor to be savored.
(1) Terry Sicular, "The Challenge of High Inequality in China." Inequality in Focus vol 2, 2 (August 2013): 2 Poverty Reduction and Equity Department, World Bank.org.
Available at http://www.worldbank.org/content/dam/Worldbank/document/Poverty%20documents/Inequality-In-Focus-0813.pdf
(2) Han-yi Shaw, "The Diaoyutai/Senkaku Islands Dispute: its History and an Analysis of the Ownership Claims of the P.R.C., R.O.C., and Japan. " Maryland Series in Contemporary Asian Studies 3, 1(1999): 5. Available at: http://digitalcommons.law.umaryland.edu/mscas/vol1999/iss3/1.
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